Policies and information
This is the basic care I give to all my rabbits, and it is also a part of a contract I have buyers read and sign before releasing a rabbit into their care.
Rabbit Care
Rabbits are use to getting the following:
1. A big handful of timothy hay/Meadow Grass daily
2. Mini Rex ½ cup of 17% protein pellets per day.
Jersey Woolies 1/3 cup of 17% (or higher) protein pellets per day.
Argente Bruns 1 ½ cups of 17% protein pellets per day.
3. Mini Rex ½ cup of sweet feed (for horses) 2 times per week in addition
to pellets
Jersey Woolies 1/3 cup of sweet feed 2 times per week in addition to
pellets
Argente Bruns 1 cup of sweet feed 2 times per week in addition to pellets
4. Greens ( romaine
lettuce, parsley, beet tops, dandelion leaves). Greens are fed fresh from the
garden 2 times per week during the spring/summer/fall season. During the winter
greens can be bought At the grocery store, and they are given once a week.
5.) Rolled oats. 1/3 a cup is given to all breeds at least twice a week.
6.) Fresh water every day. They are use to drinking out of water bottles, but
crocks aren't hard to switch to if that is your preference.
7.) On occasion treats such as buns, apples, etc are given to the rabbits.
When changing the rabbits pellets go slowly at first. Start by mixing a small
amount of the new pellets to the old, then gradually add more new pellets and
less of the old until you're completely switched over this should be done in no
less then 2 weeks. Rabbits can be sensitive to change, the first signs of
distress will be the rabbit not eating, drinking, having loose stool, or none at
all.
If the rabbit stops eating, drinking or pooping, the best route to take would be
getting them to a rabbit savvy vet asap.
If a rabbit gets loose stools give them nothing but hay and oats for at least
three days. Then gradually reintroduce their regular pellets. Never restrict
their water.
For indoor rabbits (pets) there are many different brands of pellets available I
highly recommend using Martins Little Friends Rabbit food. It contains yucca
which helps to neutralize the smell of rabbit urine. I have found that no matter
the rabbit they LOVE this food. It can be a little more pricey compared to other
brands but it is definitely worth it for a happy healthy bunny.
For show or production rabbits, Martins can be a little pricey if you have more
then 3 rabbits eating it. I suggest checking out what your local feed mill
offers. I highly recommend Floradale rabbit feed at a protein level of no less
then 17% Floradale feed has natural ingredients for drug-free mycotoxin control,
mycotoxins are the harmful bacteria in moulds that can grow on grains in the
right climate (usually moist summers)
Rabbit housing
The bigger the cage the better. Rabbits are much happier if they have room to
stretch and run around. It is also much healthier as well. There is no maximum
size of cage a rabbit should be in the minimum how ever is very important
Mini Rex: No smaller then 18”X24”
Jersey Woolies: No smaller then 18”X24”
Argente Bruns: No
smaller then 24”X30”
For Does with litters the minimum size jumps up to allow room for the nest box and eventually the babies to have room to play. Again the larger the better
Mini Rex: No smaller then 24”X24”
Jersey Woolies: No Smaller then 24”X24”
Argente Bruns: No smaller then 24”X36”
There are two basic types of rabbit cages, wire bottom, and solid bottom. Both have pros and cons.
|
Wire bottom pros |
Wire bottom cons |
Solid bottom pros |
Solid bottom cons |
|
Sanitary, the rabbit urine and feces falls through to a drop tray that
keeps it away from the rabbit. Therefore the rabbit is less lucky to
have hutch burn and stains from sitting on their own mess. |
The wire can be tough on some rabbits feet, so a resting board or mat
must be supplied, although some rabbits do prefer wire over solid. |
Much easier on the rabbits feet |
Since rabbits sit in shavings, they can make quite the mess running
around. |
|
Easy to clean, pull tray, dump wash, add litter return. All while the
rabbit remains in the cage. |
Does not looks as “pet friendly” as some solid bottom cages |
Much more pleasing to the eye. |
Not easily stacked and custom sizes are very hard to come buy. |
|
Much cheaper to buy then solid bottoms. Litter is also cheaper as much
less is used. |
Can have sharp edges. |
|
Bedding can cost an arm and a leg. Pine is much healthier for rabbits
then cedar although cedar smells much better. |
|
Can be stacked very easily and can come in custom sizes |
|
|
Rabbits can sit in their own feces causing hutch burn staining, and sore
hocks. As well as more proneness to respiratory distress since ammonia
is heavier then air and the rabbits would be sitting right in it |
Handling
When handling a rabbit you have to remember they are prey animals
meaning they think like an animal that
could become someone's dinner. Sudden movements, weird, strange or loud noises
will frighten it. A frightened or angry rabbit will try to defend itself either
by growling, scratching, or biting. Even the most docile of rabbits can act this
way when put in a frightening situation.
Rabbits need to learn to trust you. So I strongly recommend letting a rabbit get use to its new surroundings before trying to handle it. Usually a week is a good amount of time to let the rabbit adjust, during this time you should in no way try to handle the rabbit. To gain a rabbits trust, you want to use slow deliberate movements, and a calm voice when feeding and giving treats. In time the rabbit will learn to trust you.
When picking up a rabbit make sure they are well supported (like a baby). The best way to pick up a rabbit is by a firm hold with one hand holding their bum, and the other under it's front legs. If the rabbit starts to struggle immediate put it down. When carrying a rabbit the best way is to have all four feet against your chest with a firm hand on it's bum and one on it's back. Never ever under any circumstances pick a rabbit up by its ears or the scruff of it's neck, this can do major damage to the rabbit.
My rabbits are not use to being around dogs, cats, birds, farm animals, or children under 12 years old they may take longer adjust to a new setting with these factors. When around other animals strict supervision is needed. As well as when children are involved, rabbits are more fragile then they seem.
Other useful
information
Rabbits are solitary animals, and do not need the company of other rabbits. They
can be very territorial as well, so if you intend to have more then one rabbit,
they each will need their own cage, unless you intend to spend a lot of time and
effort trying to bond them. Unless you intend to breed rabbits, bucks and does
should never bet let near each other, it only takes a split second for them to
mate. If there are children around I would advise keeping small locks on the
cages so they don't “accidentally” have a play date.
Rabbits are very easy to keep, and their waste is the best fertilizer going it
can be added straight to a garden, since no composting is needed. A little
rabbit manure and your gardens will be the envy of all your neighbours.
Rabbits can be very easily litter trained, as well as harness trained. They
should never be allowed outside to run free if they are not in A.) and exercise
pen. Or B.) on a harness and leash.
Rabbit's need their nails trimmed regularly so whenever you trim your own nails will be a good time to do your rabbits.
Sale Information
and Policies
Rabbits are sold on a first come first serve basis. A rabbit is not considered sold until a full payment has been received and the rabbit has left my care. I will only hold a rabbit for 1 week, unless prior arrangements have been made, and only on a 50% deposit of the asking price. When the one week grace period is up and no arrangements have been made, the deposit is considered forfeit and the rabbit will be placed back up for sale.
I will under absolutely
no circumstance sell a rabbit under the age of 8 weeks. No ifs, ands, or buts.
Due to the large percentage of rabbits bought as holiday gifts ending up in
shelters. I do not purposefully breed rabbits to sell as holiday gifts. Nor will
I sell any rabbit during the holidays. This is my choice, I'm not trying to make
a profit off my rabbits.
I offer a 7 day health guarantee once the rabbit leaves my care, any issues with the rabbit should be brought up within the allotted time period. If the rabbit is to die within the 7 days, proof of death must be brought forwards. I will only replace the rabbit if it died of natural causes. I will not replace a rabbit if it did not die of natural causes (this includes, but is not limited to: starvation, predator attack, and poor handling).
Prices reflect the
quality of the rabbit.
Pet: $40.00
Show: $50.00 +
I don't believe in "Brood" Stock as I will not breed anything I wouldn't show.
Please note all rabbits are available as pets.
If you can no longer care for one of my rabbits, I encourage trying to find a new home yourself. There are several websites and groups out there that will help place a pet rabbit. I will take it back as a last resort but I will offer no monetary compensation, the money paid for the rabbit will be considered “rent” money of the rabbit.
Pet rabbits are sold without a pedigree, no amount of money offered will buy the rabbits pedigree. They are also sold on a no-breeding contract. If your pet rabbit “accidentally” has babies, they are your responsibility not mine, I will not take them, or find homes for them. The rabbit should not have been bred in the first place.
Show quality rabbits are not guaranteed to win. They are merely free of any disqualifications at the time of the sale, and they are a close example of the breed standard. I will always be willing to go over the rabbit, to point out the strong points and poor points with you. Also if breeding the rabbit I cannot guarantee that they will produce, unless they have been previously proven to A.) Produce a litter. B.) Properly care for a litter and raise till weaning (Does only)
I ask that any show
animals I sell, if for whatever reason you wish to sell it that you please do
not sell it for more then $10.00 above the price you paid for it. Also, I would
like to be informed when a rabbit is being sold in case I would like to buy it
back (show animals only).
I have read and understood the basic care sheet____
I am purchasing a: Pet Rabbit____Show Rabbit____
Breed:________________________ Variety:____________________Sex:_____________
D.O.B:________________________
Ear#:_________________ Sire Ear#_____________
Dam Ear#:_______________
*If purchasing a Pet, I
understand I am not to breed this rabbit____
*If purchasing a Pet, if I can no longer care for the rabbit I promise to try
and re-home the rabbit before bringing it back to the breeder____
*If purchasing a show
animal, I understand the rabbit is not guaranteed to win____
*If Purchasing a show animal, I understand the rabbit is not guaranteed to
produce____
*If Purchasing a show animal, I understand the breeder gets first choice if I
wish to to sell the rabbit later on____
*If purchasing a show animal, I understand that I am not to sell the rabbit for
more then $10.00 above the original price____
Print Name: ___________________________
Signature:
_______________________________ Date: _______________________
Breeder Signature:________________________Date: ________________________