Rabbit Care

Rabbits are use to getting the following:
 

1. They have constant access to pressed timothy/alfalfa hay cubes. They are not use to the dust in bale hay.

2. On average Mini Rex get a ½ cup of 17% protein pellets per day and Argente Bruns 1 ½ cups of 17% protein pellets per day. However some require more and others require less. I tailor my feeding program to the individual rabbit's needs.
 

4. Greens ( romaine lettuce, parsley, beet tops, dandelion leaves). Greens are fed fresh from the garden a minimum of 3 days a week in the spring-fall.  In the winter they receive store bought greens 2 times a week.

5.) Rolled oats. 1/3 a cup is given to those who eat them once or twice a week.

6.) Fresh water every day. They are use to drinking out of water bottles, but crocks aren't hard to switch to if that is your preference.

7.) On occasion treats such as buns, apples, etc are given to the rabbits.

A sudden change in diet can cause stress in rabbits. So a switch to a new diet should be made slowly over a long period of time to help the rabbit adjust better.

For indoor rabbits (pets) there are many different brands of pellets available I highly recommend using Martins Little Friends Rabbit food. It contains yucca which helps to neutralize the smell of rabbit urine. I have found that no matter the rabbit they LOVE this food. It can be a little more pricey compared to other brands but it is definitely worth it for a happy healthy bunny.

For show or production rabbits, Martins can be a little pricey if you have more then 3 rabbits eating it. I suggest checking out what your local feed mill offers. I highly recommend Floradale rabbit feed at a protein level of no less then 17% Floradale feed has natural ingredients for drug-free mycotoxin control, mycotoxins are the harmful bacteria in moulds that can grow on grains in the right climate (usually moist summers)

Rabbit housing

It is said the bigger the cage the better, however rabbits are prey animals and can be spooked no matter how tame and laid back they are. A cage that allows a rabbit to have more then three running steps is enough space for a rabbit to build up sufficient speed to hit the side of the cage hard enough to break their necks.

Mini Rex: No smaller then 18”X24”

Argente Bruns: No smaller then 24”X30”
 

For Does with litters the minimum size jumps up to allow room for the nest box and eventually the babies to have room to play.

Mini Rex: No smaller then 24”X24”

Argente Bruns: No smaller then 24”X36”

There are two basic types of rabbit cages, wire bottom, and solid bottom. Both have pros and cons.

I keep my rabbits in wire bottom cages and do not use any type of wooden shaving in the trays as even sitting above them can cause irritation to some rabbits. There are oils in the wood some rabbits may be sensitive too.  I would also avoid pulp/fluff/ and paper bedding as it can cause blockages if injested.

Cleaning

Other useful information

Rabbits are solitary animals, and do not need the company of other rabbits. They can be very territorial as well, so if you intend to have more then one rabbit, they each will need their own cage, unless you intend to spend a lot of time and effort trying to bond them. Unless you intend to breed rabbits, bucks and does should never be let near each other, it only takes a split second for them to mate. If there are children around I would advise keeping small locks on the cages so they don't “accidentally” have a play date.

Rabbits are very easy to keep, and their waste is the best fertilizer going it can be added straight to a garden, since no composting is needed. A little rabbit manure and your gardens will be the envy of all your neighbours.

Rabbits can be very easily litter trained, as well as harness trained. They should never be allowed outside to run free if they are not in A.) and exercise pen. Or B.) on a harness and leash.

Rabbit's need their nails trimmed regularly so whenever you trim your own nails will be a good time to do your rabbits.

Sale Information and Policies
 

Rabbits are sold on a first come first serve basis. In order to hold a rabbit a 50% non-refundable deposit is required. I will hold the rabbit for 1 week and if no arrangements have been made to pick-up the rabbit the rabbit will be re-listed for sale.

I will under absolutely no circumstance sell a rabbit under the age of 8 weeks. No ifs, ands, or buts.
Due to the large percentage of rabbits bought as holiday gifts ending up in shelters. I do not purposefully breed rabbits to sell as holiday gifts. Nor will I sell any rabbit during the holidays. This is my choice, I'm not trying to make a profit off my rabbits.

I offer a 7 day health guarantee once the rabbit leaves my care, any issues with the rabbit should be brought up within the allotted time period. If the rabbit is to die within the 7 days, proof of death must be brought forwards. I will only replace the rabbit if it died of natural causes and those causes can be proven. I will not replace a rabbit if it did not die of natural causes (this includes, but is not limited to: starvation, predator attack, and poor handling). I do not guarantee the health of a rabbit that has been transported by a third party or has been to a show where I cannot control who or what the rabbit comes into contact with.

Prices listed reflect the quality of the rabbit.
 

If you can no longer care for one of my rabbits, I encourage trying to find a new home yourself. There are several websites and groups out there that will help place a pet rabbit. I will take it back as a last resort but I will offer no monetary compensation, the money paid for the rabbit will be considered “rent” money of the rabbit.

Pet rabbits are sold without a pedigree, no amount of money offered will buy the rabbits pedigree. They are also sold on a no-breeding contract. If your pet rabbit “accidentally” has babies, they are your responsibility not mine, I will not take them, or find homes for them. The rabbit should not have been bred in the first place.

Show quality rabbits are not guaranteed to win. They are merely free of any disqualifications at the time of the sale, and they are a close example of the breed standard. I will always be willing to go over the rabbit, to point out the strong points and poor points with you. Also if breeding the rabbit I cannot guarantee that they will produce, unless they have been previously proven to A.) Produce a litter. B.) Properly care for a litter and raise till weaning (Does only)