Home - About - Bucks - Does - Litters - For Sale - Argente Bruns - Shows - Blog - Evaluating Mini Rex

Evaluating A Mini Rex

The Basics:

Point System:

Body: 35 Points
Head: 5 Points
Ears: 5 Points
Fur: 35 Points
Colour/Markings: 15 Points
Condition: 5 Points
  ----------------------------
  100 Points


 They are a four-class rabbit, which means there are four age groups they can be shown in. Senior buck, senior doe, junior buck, and junior doe.

Senior Bucks- 6 Months of age and over, weight 3 to 4 ¼ pounds.

Senior Does- 6 Months of age and over, weight 3 ¼ to 4 ½ pounds.

Junior Bucks and Does- Under 6 months of age, maximum weight 3 ¾ pounds. Minimum weight is 2 pounds.

NOTE: Juniors exceeding maximum the maximum weight may be shown as a Senior, but a Senior may not be shown as a Junior.

 

Ears over over 3 ½ inches in length will be disqualified !

Fur is to be no longer then the diameter of a dime!

Breed Faults and Disqualifications:

Faults: Long, narrow, or rangy type. Very low or narrow hindquarters. Chopped or undercut hindquarters, protruding hips, poor flesh condition. Similarity to Netherland Dwarf, especially the head. Disproportionate ears, overly protruding guard hairs. Dull, dead, or faded coat. Severe molt. Harsh wiry, or curly texture coat, excessively soft coat lacking resilience or density. General Faults.

Disqualifications: Fur other then Rex, over weight or under weight. Ears over 3.5inches, general disqualifications.

General Faults and Disqualifications:

Faults: General faults may be considered temporary or permanent in Nature. They will not eliminate the exhibit from competition but will be used negatively by the judge when classifying the animal for placement.

-Poor Show/Table Manners
-Poor Example of Breed
-Cow Hocks
-Hutch Stains
-Poorly developed loin/hindquarter on meat breeds.
-Sore eyes
-Weak of Improper ear carriage
-Stray white, or foreign coloured hairs, mealiness, or ticking on solids.
-Excessive femininity in males, excessive masculinity in females

Temporary Disqualifications: Disqualifications that are only temporary and can be fixed.

-Runny Eyes
-Overweight or Underweight (as per standard)
-Does heavy in young
-Wrong classification
-Obvious signs of trimming or masking of defects
-Sore hocks, cuts, abscesses, mites, or other signs of ill health. Including wry neck, or vent disease.
 

Permanent Disqualifications: Permanently rendering an animal unfit for an award

-Cross bred or mongrel animals, or animals lacking in breed characteristics as to make their classification doubtful.
-Wry Neck
-Rupture or Tumor
-Split Penis in bucks
-Missing teeth
-Torn or Chewed Ears
-Missing toenails
-Crooked or deformed bones, missing tail.
-Orchidism in bucks
-Droop ears (except in lops)
-Blindness in one or both eyes, mismatched eye colour, specs in eyes.
-Putty nose
-Mismatched toenail colour.
 


Buck                 Doe

HEAD:

1:  Line 1 shows the width between the eyes on a buck
2:  Line 2 shows the length between the nose and the eye.

On a buck I like to see line one and line two to be similar lengths. On a doe I'm much more lenient and don't mind those narrower heads. Snippy heads should be something to stay away from (very narrow between the eyes, and even narrower around the muzzle). The Mini Rex head is described as being "Wedge" shaped.

 

ab

Ears:

Ears on a Mini Rex are to be under 3.5" anything over will be disqualified. The ears should also balance the body, and not be to long, or too short.

1a: Shows the tip of the nose
1b:
Shows the edge of the ears
2a:
Shows the edge of the ears
2b:
Shows the edge of the nose

To test whether the ears are in balance with the head, fold them over the face. They should not go past the nose or they're too long. They should also make it to at least between the eyes or they're too short

Overall you want the ears to be in balance with the rabbit. When a rabbit looks like it has large ears even if they measure 2" it means the ears are not balanced to the rabbit.

Body a:

1: Line one shows shows the highest point inline with the knee, and the hind toes. This is what you want to see.

2: Line two shows the width between the end of the rib cage and hip. If you can get more then one finger between the two the rabbit has a long midsection.

3: Line three shows how the ears balance with the body. Ideally you want the ears to be lower then the highest point of the back.

4: Line four shows how the front leg should be positioned flat on the ground

5: Line five shows how the front toes should be lined up with the back corner of the eye (covered by my hand)

6: Line six shows how the back leg should be positioned, flat on the ground and straight. (In this case hidden by Donny's rolls)

7: Line seven shows what to look for in the hindquarter, a graceful curve down starting at the highest point and carrying to the ground. The hindquarter should feel smooth and full. You should not be able to feel pin bones, and your hand should not get caught on the hips.

Body b:

1: Line one shows the width of the body.

2: Line two shows length of the body

3: Line three shows width of the shoulders.

Ideally you want the rabbit to be as wide as it is long. The width of the shoulders should be slightly narrower (or tapered) from the widest point. You should not see a protrusion of the hips, but a smooth graceful curve. Hips that protrude or catch your hand as you run it over the body, generally means the rabbit is pinched (or cow hocked).

 

Body Example 2:

A: The tip of the ears when posed.
B: The depth of the body
C: Shows a lack of fullness to the hindquarter. Instead of stopping at the table it curves under the rabbit. Also known as undercut.
D: The highest point of the body.

Faults:

1: Line one shows the hind toes inline with the knee joint but not the highest point. This rabbit is posed correctly. She just peaks too early.

2: Line two shows the ears and their balance. They do balance her head, and they are under the highest point, but ideally I would like to see a bit for depth of body to balance them (or shorter ears)

3: Line three shows a small flat spot over the loin.

4: Line four shows a chopped hindquarter. Instead of a curved you have almost (or in some cases) a vertical line down.

5: Dot five shows the highest point of the rabbit. She peaks early and because of that we see the sloping of the hindquarters (flat spot over the loin)


*Not a show rabbit, Photo courtesy of Annette.

1: Lines 1 Show long shoulders.

2: Two shows where the rise starts.

In a Mini Rex you want the rise to start at the base of the ears. The shoulders should not be visible, there should not be any sort of sudden jump, and the width of the shoulders should be a touch narrower then the widest part of the body.

1: Line one shows a hind foot, where the hock is turned in and the toes instead of lining up with the body point away from it. This says that the rabbit is pinched (cow hocked)  the hind legs should be straight and far apart like this |  | a pinched rabbit's legs will form more of a V shape. You should also be able to put at least 3 fingers between the hocks. A pinched rabbit will have protruding hips as well (or catchy hips)

2: Line two shows undercut. see how the hindquarter abruptly ends just above the hock and appears to curve in? You want the hindquarter to carry down to the ground. Be wide and full.


 

A: Line A shows the toes lined up with the knee joint (most would call this the hip)

B: This shows the highest point or peak of the rabbit

See the space in between A and B where you can see into the background? Even though the rabbits posed up correctly she peaks late, giving the illusion she is leaning back


Photo courtesy of Annette

1 & 2: Notice how just between the cheek and the muzzle there is a considerable indent? This is what you would call a pinched muzzle or being snippy.


Photo Courtesy of Jesse L

Here we have a picture of a rabbit lacking depth (Also known as height of body). See how the ears are above the highest point of the body? Even though the ears may be balanced with the head, he would need more depth to have them balance with his body. This rabbit can also be described as "flat"


Photo Courtesy of Annette

Here we have a picture of a Mini Rex that is longer in body. You can see instead of an O shape it is more of an 0 shape. If you hold a straight edge along the red lines you can actually see that the line showing length is quite a bit longer then the width.

1: The location of the left hock (back of the foot)
2: the location of the right hock
3 & 4: Ideally where I would like to see the hocks to be on this rabbit

As you can see the two dots are very close together. On this rabbit I can only get two fingers between those hocks this means this rabbit is pinched (Or cow hocked) from a side view you can see the toes pointing out in a \ / shape.

   

Fur
(What to look for in an adult coat)

A lot of people when they think of a Mini Rex the first thing they think of is that plush velvety fur. As is the key aspect of the Rex breeds. Though many new breeders have the wrong idea of how the Mini Rex fur should be, they choose the softest, silkiest they can find, which is not what you want at all.

Mini Rex fur is recessive meaning that in order to have Rex fur the rabbit must have two Rex genes, only one Rex gene will result in a normal furred rabbit. Now you won't have to worry about that if you breed two Rex together. Now what makes the Rex different from other fur? Basically, it was a mutation seen in wild rabbits in France during the late 1800's that caused the fur to stand away from the body instead of laying flat. It also caused the guard hairs to become shortened to the same length as the undercoat.

So what should you look for in a good Mini Rex coat? What should you stay away from? Here are a few questions you should ask yourself when choosing that perfect coat.

1.) When I look at the coat, does it appear to be standing straight up? Is it even? Does it look polished? When you look at it you don't want to see any variation of lengths, you want the rabbit to have the look of a mink pelt or as if the coat had been evenly shaved. You do not want to see longer guard hairs. The coat should appear as one solid smooth surface, picture a solid glass surface, smooth right?

2.) When I touch the coat do I feel a resistance? Or does it just feel smooth and gives under the pressure of my hand? A good Mini Rex coat when touched should be springy like it is resisting the pressure of your hand. When you press your hand down on it's back, do you leave a hand print? Or does the coat regain it's shape? A good coat will instantly regain it's shape. A poor coat will have an imprint left on it. When you pat the rabbit one way does the fur return to an upright position, or does it stay smooshed down? You want it to return as is, just like with the hand print

3.) Does the coat have density? Is it even all over? Density refers to the amount of hairs per square inch. The more the better in Mini Rex. A good way to test density is to pinch the fur between your index finger and middle finger. If it were not for the fur would you fingers touch? Or does it feel as if you cannot get a good grip and the fur is sliding out from between your fingers. If your fingers almost touch, the rabbit is lacking density. If you feel a resistance of the fur the rabbit has good density. Now try pinching the fur on different sections of the rabbit (Back, Hindquarter, middle, hind leg) You should be feeling the same resistance all over, if not the coat is uneven.

4.) How long is to long? The simple way to test this is to take a dime. Stand it in the fur, and pinch the fur against the dime. Does the dime disappear? Or can you still see the top? If the coin disappears the fur is too long. Now try this on different spots of the rabbit, the fur should approximately reach the same point of the dime no matter where you place it.

5.) Texture, texture is a tricky thing in Mini Rex, if the fur is to coarse you have to many protruding guard hairs, if it is too soft, you don't have enough guard hairs. The key is to remember, you don't want silk, you want velvet. Unlike silk velvet has bite. You should feel a kick when petting a good Mini Rex coat, not the usual "It's soft" reaction.

So in point a good Mini Rex has a coat that is resistant, springy, dense, short, stands straight up, even, smooth, and velvety.

A bad Mini Rex coat, is soft, uneven, long, silky, thin, not resistant.

Remember a curl should make you hurl.

Fur
(What to look for in a baby coat)

Baby fur is a lot different then an adult coat so you should never cull baby rabbits on fur alone. Baby rabbits coats are often more cottony then Junior or Adult coats. As well as a baby rabbit is doing a lot of growing in a short period of time so the finish of the coat tends to suffer a bit in the process.

1.) The first thing to look for in a good coat on a Mini Rex occurs within the first week of birth. The longer it takes for the fur to come in, the more dense the adult coat will be. If you have a normal furred litter and a Mini Rex litter you can see right off the bat how much longer a Mini Rex takes to have it's fur grow in.

2.) Density at 2-3 weeks old; a kit with promising density will look like it has a fully finished adult coat (in miniature).

3.) The Good curl. A kit that will have excellent density as an adult tends to have a wave in it's fur. Not like a ringlet curl more of a crimp or kink throughout it's coat. The reason for this is because the fur is so dense and the kit is so small there is not enough room for the fur to stand straight up so it bends around itself giving the curly texture. The longer the fur remains curled the better, as long as it's gone by the time it has it's full adult coat.

4.) The bad curl. The fur is visibly thin, and the curl is more like an actual curl then crimp. The fur is able to lie flat. This is going to have a very thin adult coat.

4.) Texture until the first or 2nd molt it is hard to tell whether or not the kit will have the texture you want. However if the kits fur is more coarse then it is cottony it won't change much into adulthood.
 

 

 Culling and Keeping rules.
Culling can be interpreted as either sell or kill, use which ever method you are comfortable with.


10% of your rabbits are responsible for producing 95% of your winners. This is to help find that 10% and get rid of the "junk"

Culling is the most important part of any breeding program. Two key words that need to be used when culling are "strict" and accurate". Everyone culls, the trick is to do it well. There are several problems that you should be aware of in your culling program, most of which are disqualifications. Make sure you realize that most of these problems are genetic, and that breeding them into your herd could result in major problems in future generations. If you are unaware of what disqualifications are consult your Standard of Perfection.

-The number one trick to culling is : Picture your ideal know what you're looking for, and then find the weaknesses in your herd. If you need to improve hindquarters, cull rabbits with poor hindquarters. IF you need to improve shoulders, cull rabbits with poor shoulders.

-One redeeming quality does not make up for 6 bad ones. Only keep rabbits that have what you need to improve on if they have few other faults. Or else you will just be creating more work for yourself down the road.

-If you produce a nice rabbit do not sell it and assume "You have both the parents, you can always make another one" Cull the parents or else you do not move forwards.

-You do not need a huge selection of bucks. If you find you hardly ever use a buck, cull it. If you have several bucks that are all related, keep the best cull the rest.

-Don't keep nasty rabbits, poor does, or those with recessive genetic flaws. Use a scale and use it often. poor mothers pass the trait along, poor sires pass their traits along, poor or sick animals pass the problems along. Ask yourself when you keep a rabbit, is this better than what I have? If it is not, cull it.

- You don't ever get better by keeping old rabbits that don't do well.

-Don't keep junk, it doesn't get better.

-Line breeding can be your best friend or your worst enemy. It brings forward the best and the worst in a line. Whether it's fantastic fur or a recessive genetic disqualification. Line breeding is the fastest way to figure out where you are in your breeding program and what may be lurking in it.

-Rabbits go through a growth spurt where their body grows at such a rapid rate that they become gangly and yes, ugly. The age this happens can differ with different genetic lines, but the average age that this growth phase starts is between 6 to 12 weeks. The rabbit stops growing and levels out between 4 to 6 months. Do not cull during this time, or you may be throwing away future show stoppers.